Video Episodes:
14 Views
16:48:06 11/23/09
Kranj Lead WC 2009, Womens final
[LESS INFO] 14 VIEWS | ADDED 16:48:06 11/23/09
I don't recall a female contest on such a high level with so many blunders! At the end only Mina Markowitch and Akiyo Noguchi (bouldering WC winner) climbed their best and took first and second. It has been a long season for Johanna Ernst and of course for all the others too! As mentioned above, there are not so many occasions where a climber of Johanna's caliber looks so confused in a horizontal roof! Also, she misses the knee bar for a rest and therefore most likely the victory at Kranj. Still she won the lead WC 2009!
7 Views
16:42:27 11/23/09
Kranj Lead WC 2009, Mens final
[LESS INFO] 7 VIEWS | ADDED 16:42:27 11/23/09
In 2009, only Adam Ondra can beat Adam Ondra! If he doesn't make a mistake (like he did a week before at Brno) he will win. It has been a while since the rock climbing world and the competition scene could agree on one champion. In 2009 Adam Ondra climbed the most not only hard but also diverse rock routes and won the World Cup. There is nothing super human or magical about Adam, he just brings, for the time being, the most complete climbing skill set to the table.
Here Adam climbs side by side with the second placed Sachi Amman from Japan and Austria's Jakob Schubert (third place).
7 Views
16:34:36 11/23/09
Puurs Lead WC 2009, Men's final
[LESS INFO] 7 VIEWS | ADDED 16:34:36 11/23/09
Adam Ondra climbing lesson at Puurs!
An alert mind that allows for quick descision making. Check! A huge repertoire of movements from lots of hard climbing already in the age of sixteen. Check! A body that won't hold you back. Check!
Voilà, now you can virtually run through the notoriously overhanging Puurs competition wall! Demonstrated by Adam Ondra winning the IFSC Climbing Worldcup in Belgium Saturday night!
His style is so efficient that we foresee that in the future everybody has to climb like Adam! This video lets you compare the top 3 climbers of the men's finals to analyze their different styles.
7 Views
10:13:45 08/25/09
Bronx Rock Invitational 2009 - part two
[LESS INFO] 7 VIEWS | ADDED 10:13:45 08/25/09
Recipe for a fantastic boulder contest:
Invite 12 very different climbers, all with various backgrounds, 6 girls and 6 boys. Have a cool venue ready, with clean structures that allow for creative route setting that challenge all skills for bouldering. Let them pick straws, one girl and one boy share one section on your structure. Leave it open to them if or if not to coorporate, just ask them to care for each others safety. Let them put up problems, apply as few rules as possible, provide the girls with 2 additional (bad!) holds to compensate for reach etc. Do the ranking / prize thing Melloblocco style, each problem is worth x €, divided through the ascendonistas so nobody returns empty handed. After them setting for one hour, do something for your audience, get into the climber's head, ask them for the idea behind their problem, some might have one, some not, the crowd loves world class climbers talk about climbing!
Than it is bouldering time!
Your job is done, from now on the thing flows by itself! The climbers support each other, the vibe is friendly and the air electric. Some unexpected turns are to be expected, boys get grey hair over "easy" girl problems, girls cheat by solving macho moves with girl technique. More grey hair for the boys! After 90 minutes everybody is wasted beyond believe and you have clear, undisputed winners. (Jule & Jonas in this case) Everybody is happy.
Trust me, we did it three times now. It is called BRONX ROCK INVITATIONAL!
28 Views
10:53:39 06/30/09
Besser Bouldern workshop
[LESS INFO] 28 VIEWS | ADDED 10:53:39 06/30/09
Besser Bouldern workshop von Udo Neumann im Blockwerk Mainz, 2009
11 Views
10:23:18 05/02/09
Petrohradske PADani 2009
[LESS INFO] 11 VIEWS | ADDED 10:23:18 05/02/09
What a lovely event that is! We met in the village of Petrorahd, Petr Resch led us to this years' area, where everybody, armed with the brand new guidebook tried to solve as many of the stunning granit problems as possible. The weather gods were gentle this year and we had two great days in the Czech forest. I mainly shot stills for my upcoming bouldering book this time. Some sequences are shot so rapidly that it makes for an entertaining slideshow. Enjoy!
148 Views
19:22:35 03/09/09
Gibbon Climbing Club, Bali, Indonesia
[LESS INFO] 148 VIEWS | ADDED 19:22:35 03/09/09
Indonesia's island of Bali is mainly known for its surfing. Especially on the Bukhit peninsula you find some of the worlds most epic surfspots in close proximity. We also came here mainly to surf, but while approaching some of the spots like Uluwatu or Padang Padang, my Boulderers keeps telling me "wait a moment, there is actually some really good rock here!"
Whereas Indonesia is build from volcanic activity, these cliffs are made from a very mediteranean, juggy limestone.
This is my surfbuddy Markus at the entrance and exit cave for surfing at Uluwatu. Later Gabi and I check out the bouldering at Padang Padang which is actually really good. There are even some short sport routes here and we are wondering who had bolted those lines.
Conny knows about the existence of a climbing scene on Bali and of some obscure area in the mountains, but unfortunately little more.
One day, with the help of a local driver, we set out to find it. The area Conny had in mind is rich on high quality volcanic rock, but doesn't show any signs of development. The further we go, the fewer people understand any English.
This feels very far away from civilization!
After some nice, but ultimately futile hiking we decide to tell our driver what we are looking for and having him figure it out with the local people.
Our hopes are high when the first group of people he asks all were pointing into the same direction, but sink, when in the next village, after a couple of kilometers on terrible dirt roads, nobody seemed to understand what the hell we were talking about!
After much back and forth we arrive at a cliff that didn't look any better than the many we had seen before.
A thunderstorm is approaching and our driver is concerned how to make it back through those dirt roads. We just climb one route on very high quality crimpy volcanic rock, before hurrying back.
Who had put these bolts in?
You know that climbing is becoming popular when you find more artificial climbing walls than say, soccer fields on an island like Bali!
At least here, in a semi abandoned shopping mall near Kuta, we finally get the phone number of Dani Handani, one of the driving forces behind Bali climbing.
Dani is heading the Gibbon Climbing Club which is just about to get familiar with their new, excellent training facilities.
Bali people are some of the nicest human beings you could ever hope to deal with! Quickly we make plans for a presentation of mine about how to go about training and getting the most benefit from their facilities. The workshop takes place on our last night on Bali.
The difference between my analytic German approach and the Bali way of doing things is obvious, still everybody has a good time!
I am surely enjoying myself in the midst of these stoked and soulful people. Thank you Bali, thank you Gibbon climbing club!
18 Views
18:13:43 12/09/08
2te Lizenz zum Klettern DVD
[LESS INFO] 18 VIEWS | ADDED 18:13:43 12/09/08
Die zweite Lizenz zum Klettern DVD ist keine Neuauflage der ersten Lizenz DVD, sondern eine Ergänzung und Erweiterung mit neuem Konzept „Kletterleistung de/konstruiert.“ Am Anfang steht die Frage „Was wissen wir übers Klettern?“ Auf der fast fünf Stunden dauernden DVD demonstrieren Dir die besten Kletterer unserer Zeit den momentanen Stand der Dinge im Bouldern und Klettern. Näheres auf www.LizenzzumKlettern.de
11 Views
16:04:16 12/01/08
Buildering 2008 WC
[LESS INFO] 11 VIEWS | ADDED 16:04:16 12/01/08
Watch Martin Hochbruck's interesting account of the 2008 BUILDERING WC in and around Essen! (BUILDERING = BoulDERING on BUILDings! btw)
20 Views
22:30:42 10/01/08
the BAZ! movie
[LESS INFO] 20 VIEWS | ADDED 22:30:42 10/01/08
The BAZ! 2008 has been the best climbing related event I've ever been to and so the documentary about it became almost 35 minutes long. The first part tells you the logistics of such a huge event and gives some impressions of the open contest. The second part is about the finals with lots of split screens to compare climbers and some incredible fisheye close-up footage. Around 700 climbers from all over the world met to climb on 200 carefully crafted problems, the best youngsters and adults made it into the enthralling finals that took place in front of a magical sunset (these guys are friends with all weathergods too!). Everything was top notch at the BAZ! 2008, with the help of more than 100 volunteers (!!!), they built 3 huge "boulders" and the final stage. They had DJ's, live music,impressive light, good food and some of the best route setting by any standard.
43 Views
17:33:09 09/18/08
Daniel Pohl, Felsenbauer
[LESS INFO] 43 VIEWS | ADDED 17:33:09 09/18/08
Daniel Pohl hat während des letzten Jahres drei klasse Bouldergebiete dort geschaffen wo vorher nix war! Die Felsen gab es natürlich schon, nur dass Gelände darunter war absolut grausig. Daniel ist Steinmetz UND Diplom-Geologe in Personalunion und kann deshalb wunderbare Natursteinmauern bauen mit denen die Terassen befestigt werden. Das Ganze ist eine Mischung aus Landschaftskunst und dem, was BMXer und MTBler auch schon eine Weile im Verborgenen tun. In diesen drei clips wird das Nangijala, der Dachriegel des Kamouraskas und die hängenden Gärten vorgestellt. Man sieht sich am Ruhrsandstein!
11 Views
12:35:36 08/20/08
Was wissen wir übers Klettern? -Teil 1
[LESS INFO] 11 VIEWS | ADDED 12:35:36 08/20/08
Ausschnitt aus dem Kapitel "Was wissen wir übers Klettern?" der Zweiten Lizenz zum Klettern DVD die im Herbst 2008 erscheint. Unser nächster Verwandter im Tierreich ist der Bonobo oder Zwergchimpanse. Von den bekannten „normalen“ Chimpansen unterscheidet er sich durch sein friedlicheres Verhalten und eine zierlichere Statur. Er ist aber trotz der Bezeichnung „Zwergschimpanse“ annähernd gleich groß. Zusammen mit Orang-Utans, Gorillas und Schimpansen gehören wir zur Familie der großen Menschenaffen. ie Frühgeschichte der Menschenaffen kann etwa 32 Mio. Jahre zurückverfolgt werden. Innerhalb unserer Familie gibt es verschieden enge Verwandtschaftsgrade, so sind Schimpansen und Gorillas näher mit uns als mit den Orang-Utans verwandt. Erst vor rund 6 Millionen Jahren trennten sich die Wege von Menschen und Schimpansen.Das heisst also, dass selbst wenn wir das Klettern sofort nach der Trennung von den Chimpansen aufgegeben HÄTTEN (was wir offensichtlich nicht haben) hat jeder Mensch, egal ob er klettert oder nicht, 24 Millionen Jahre Klettererfahrung in sich!
12 Views
10:18:47 08/07/08
NBS, Spittle Hill 2007
[LESS INFO] 12 VIEWS | ADDED 10:18:47 08/07/08
Das Finale bei der NBS 2007 im Neuseeländischen Spittle Hill ist ein Beispiel für einen sehr gelungenen "Draussen Jede(r) Man Frau Boulderwettbewerb"!
Sich und seine Leistung vergleichen zu wollen ist menschlich. Wettbewerbe bieten dazu die beste und ehrlichste Möglichkeit. Alle anderen Vergleiche, etwa über Schwierigkeitsgrade, oder Schnelligkeit der Begehung bzw. Abwertung schon bestehender Klettereien ist unbefriedigend und artet oft in Erbsenzählerei aus.
Seit über 30 jahren die ursprünglichste und immer noch sehr lebendige Austragungsform von Kletterwettbewerben ist der draussen stattfindende Boulderwettbewerb für jedermann und jede Frau. Natürlich braucht man für die Austragung einer solchen Veranstaltung ein grosses Bouldergebiet, aber auch die Infrastruktur um es für Teilnehmer und Zuschauer zugänglich zu machen.
51 Views
14:21:23 07/19/08
Annot bouldering
[LESS INFO] 51 VIEWS | ADDED 14:21:23 07/19/08
January 2001: On the way back from Spain Klem Loskot and Werner "Gamsi" Gamsjäger checked out the incredible Annot bouldering. Klem did the second ascent of Toni Lamprecht's "La morsure de la petite chanteuse, 8b" ...
29 Views
14:01:55 07/05/08
Antonator & the history of Atlantiswand bouldering
[LESS INFO] 29 VIEWS | ADDED 14:01:55 07/05/08
Der Ausschnitt aus dem Film „Atlantiswand bouldern, 10,000 BC bis 2008“ zeigt einen interessanten Vergleich zweier Begehungen von „Antonator, 8b“. Nachdem Toni 1997 die Erstbegehung gelungen war, wurde der Antonator als „unmöglich“ für jeden nicht seine körperlichen Voraussetzungen (1,88m Körpergröße, knapp 2m Spannweite) hat, beurteilt. Chris Münch zeigte bei seiner dritten Begehung 2008 jedoch, dass der Antonator durch raffinierten Einsatz von Hooks für jeden knackbar ist...
20 Views
15:38:08 05/23/08
Verdon Deep Water Soloing
[LESS INFO] 20 VIEWS | ADDED 15:38:08 05/23/08
Deep water soloing or psicobloc is obviously not only possible above the sea, but also above rivers and lakes. Where the Verdon river enters the Lac de St. Croix you have a bit of both, moving water that is still pleasantly warmed up in the lake. The only real danger are the zillions of tourists that populate the lake in summertime. Even if you yell at them they might not understand the language or are not aware of the danger of someone falling on their head. Still Anna Brenk, Frederike Förster, Markus and Daniel Jung were enjoying the Verdon limestone and the refreshing water as you can see on these photos. Udini shot this footage for the "Soul Climbing" part of the upcoming "Die 2te Lizenz zum Klettern" DVD, due fall 2008.
Enjoy summer!
Ah, one more thing: try to bring your own floating device, those pedalos are not cheap...
05/02/09